A bright future ahead for brewed coffee?
Brewed coffee has certainly grabbed the attention of the niche end of the market and therefore gained a serious audience in recent times—one which it hasn’t enjoyed for years.
Why the resurgence in interest in brewed coffee? Barista Championships, global communications and geekdom have been at the genesis of this re-awakening. The explosion in Barista Championships over the last decade, aligned with the mind-blowing advances in global communication infrastructures, personal web logs (blogs) and social networking, have enabled the move.
The openness of social networking has exposed the lies of marketing departments and allowed the coffee geeks of the world interrogate the ‘truths’ behind coffee. These coffee enthusiasts are an interesting demographic. Generally in the 18-30 age group, technically adept and without a hidden commercial intent, they probe the coffee industry armed with a healthy disrespect for accepted norms.
Ironically, these industry interrogators, who are fuelling the brewed coffee re-awakening, generally come from an espresso background, having been seduced by the passion for excellence and networking forums provided by the World Barista Championships. The driven barista then wanted to go deeper. Rather than be a performing monkey, the champion barista questioned coffee origins, processing methods, flavour profiles and the characteristics of their coffee choices. This led them to cupping different origins, ignoring commercial didacts, and simply chasing quality. Cupping coffee origins led this troupe of groundbreakers to different brew methods, because brewed coffee allows the nuances of coffees to be enjoyed and compared. Conversely, espresso’s intense strength makes it extremely difficult to contrast an origin’s flavour characteristics.
This movement coincided with an increase in the idea of terroirs for coffees, like the wine industry, whereby varietals, altitude and processing all deliver individual flavour characteristics to the cup.
With an energetic, young, well-travelled educated push for excellence in brewed coffee aligned with more and more access to single origin coffees with different processing methods, the movement was primed to benefit from the global economic boom, which fuelled a slew of micro-roasters interested in both exploring and investing in the quality end of the brewed coffee market.
The information sharing and web publication of this group’s findings has essentially exposed the coffee world’s marketing departments, who have spun stories to mask the fact that brewed coffee had universally slumped to an all-time quality nadir. Commercial ignorance and pressure to save costs yielded a standard of under-dosed, over-ground, over-roasted coffees. This led to an incorrect universal acceptance of filter coffee being bitter, over-extracted, weak coffee from poor quality beans. Shame.
Changing these perceptions will take a long time. Leading companies are taking the brave steps to do things properly, using Gold Cup brewing standards. A significant movement Stateside in brewed coffee is under way, led by companies like Intelligentsia and recently given an accepting nod by Starbucks starting the introduction of hand-brewed coffee across 11,000 stores, which can only positively influence the consumer in brew methods and the possibilities therein. The widespread availability of brewing devices for a relatively low capital spend will allow home baristas and consumers to challenge the poor norms exacted upon them on the high street.
Let’s not fool ourselves. Most of the volume roasters know what they are doing. Hopefully through education and networking, brewed coffee’s re-awakening can continue and thrive, eventually positively impacting the average brew on the high street.
Paul Stack
Operations Director, Marco
Programme Leader, SCAE Gold Cup Programme
